The Lindy Guide to Istanbul

I recently visited Istanbul for the first time. I wanted to get a real feel for the city so I spent 10 days. Instead of just touring historical sites, I dove deep into the city's current culture, walking through neighborhoods for 12-16 hours every day. I wanted to get a sense of the current living Istanbul.

Of course, I did. not forget about the historical Constantinople and it’s over 1500+ year history. I saw Hagia Sophia and SultanAhmet mosque and the other monuments.

But that wasn’t my goal. My goal is to understand the living Istanbul. To go beyond touris. Thanks to my extensive reach on this newsletter and Twitter, I organized a variety of meetups with my Turkish followers. Talking directly with residents gave me a deeper understanding of the place. And since they follow me, they are free to open up honestly about the city.

My Turkish Twitter followers are incredible, spanning various backgrounds from students to professionals, both religious and secular, and across economic strata. Their insights provided a vivid, multifaceted view of the city and its dynamic populace. I couldn’t get this insight as an outsider or just a tourist.

In This Newsletter

I'll share insights into Istanbul for both newcomers and long-time residents.

1) 20 Observations of Istanbul: A bunch of notes I took about my journey while talking to locals and walking around.

2) The Neighborhood Guide: I recently tweeted about my observations the city and my tweet went viral on Turk twitter. Even one of their biggest media personalities even posted it on Instagram. I’ll go more into detail about neighborhoods in this section.

20 Observations of Istanbul

1) Full of Young People. Over 60% of Istanbul's population is under 30, making it the youngest city in Europe. Its vibrant youthfulness is palpable as you walk its streets. It makes the rest of Europe look old and tired. You’re surrounded by youth all the time. It gives the city a certain vitalism. An optimism and life.

2) The Bosphorus is Spectacular. The Bosphorus is a unique blend of river and sea, offering one of the most stunning urban views. The city is built around it, making it a central focal point. During my stay in a neighborhood along the Bosphorus, I was continually captivated by its beauty. You can also walk along it throughout the entire city, because of the public accessibility.

3) Negotiation is Still Alive. Most of the west has completely abandoned price negotiation at the consumer level. What the price says is what you pay. But not in Turkey. Fresh off the plane and looking for a cab, I hopped into the first taxi I saw. When I arrived at my destination, the driver quoted a price much higher than the fair. You’re supposed to negotiate prior to getting into the cab. But it's not just taxis.

Negotiating is just part of the culture in Turkey. Sometimes it's a delightful dance, making shopping more interactive and personal. At other times, especially when you're not in the mood, it can feel like a chore. But understanding this local custom will make your Turkish experience richer and, quite possibly, save you a few liras along the way.

4) The Economic Crisis. Most tourists won’t be able to see it, but the residents are struggling economically. The country is going through a painful economic crisis. It hangs over the air like a black cloud. It is the one thing that everyone I met up with mentioned. Prices of goods doubled in one year. Inflation is raging over 60 percent. In September 2021, 1 US dollar was worth around 8 Turkish lira, yet in October 2023 it was 1 to 28. This video was a year ago and the crisis is way worse now.

5) The Population is Diverse. Istanbul stood as the heart of two major empires - the East Roman Empire and the Ottoman Empire - for over 1,500 years. Their expansive reach drew people from across Europe and the Middle East, creating a rich tapestry of cultures and appearances. This legacy is evident today. Turkey isn't an ethnostate; its diversity is palpable. Walk through any street, and you might mistake a Turk for someone from Sweden, Italy, Serbia, the Middle East, or Central Asia.

6) The Religious-Secular Split. Turkey's population has a distinctive divide based on religious fervor. You can even observe this split at the neighborhood level. No European nation experiences this to such a degree. Let me share a tale that paints this picture vividly: On my visit to Istanbul, I found myself in Kadikoy, a lively district with a modern European feel. Cafes lined the streets, young people sipped espressos, and contemporary art decorated the walls.

Just a short taxi ride away, I found myself in Üsküdar, an Asian side district of Istanbul. The ambiance here was starkly different. The majestic sounds of the Azan echoed through the air, women in headscarves went about their day, and teahouses were brimming with patrons engaged in deep conversations over steaming Turkish tea.

It was like traveling between two different worlds in the span of mere minutes. Yet, what struck me most was the seamless harmony with which these two contrasting worlds coexisted. There was mutual respect and a shared love for their city and culture.

7) Turks Are Very Nationalist. Istanbul pulses with patriotic fervor. As you wander its streets, you'll find that nearly every individual radiates a sense of nationalism. Coming from America, where we proudly hoist our flags, I thought I'd seen the pinnacle of national pride. Yet, the sheer number of flags and portraits of Ataturk in Istanbul left even me in awe. This palpable sense of nationalism binds the country in a powerful unity.

8) Everyone is Thin. America's obesity crisis is staggering, yet over time, it's become our new "normal." When surrounded by it, it's easy to overlook its gravity. But step into Istanbul, and the contrast is stark. Most under the age of 35 maintain a slender physique, a sight that initially jolts a traveler. It's a stark reminder of the aberration that is rampant obesity. Beyond health concerns, it underscores a simple truth about attractiveness: often, it hinges on maintaining a healthy weight. People look good in Istanbul.

9) Walking up Hills. Istanbul's landscape is a tapestry of rolling hills. Merely navigating its streets guarantees a daily workout that stretches for hours. There's walking, and then there's conquering these inclines; trust me, your muscles will attest to the difference. Maybe the secret sauce to the much-acclaimed "Mediterranean diet" isn't just in the plate. Instead, it's in the countless stairs climbed and the steep ascents tackled every day.

10) Global Leader in Cosmetic Surgery. Turkey has carved its niche as the world's cosmetic surgery capital. As you meander through its streets, don't be surprised to spot an international visitor donning a bandage on their nose or a formerly bald man showcasing fresh red markings atop his scalp. The city wears its badge as a beauty transformation hub with subtle elegance.

11) The Food is Great. Enough said.

12) Cats and Dogs. Chris Arnade wrote about the cats and dogs of Istanbul quite well. Istanbul is a city where felines (and the occasional canine) grace its streets with a gentle authority. Unlike the perceived strays of New York, these creatures are cherished communal companions. Residents, with a shared sense of guardianship, ensure they're well-fed and nurtured. These four-legged locals might just curl up beside you, offering silent companionship.

13) Mosques Are Everywhere. Turkey, much like Saudi Arabia, positions itself as the luminous beacon of Islam. In this tapestry, Istanbul emerges as the radiant capital of Islamic heritage. As you traverse its streets, the domes and minarets of mosques punctuate the skyline, a testament to both the ancient and the modern. While the old mosques whisper tales of bygone eras, new ones rise with contemporary grandeur. Europe may have shifted from building towering cathedrals (with America fashioning churches resembling college basketball arenas), but Turkey is in the midst of a mosque renaissance. Notable among these modern marvels is the majestic mosque gracing the Levant District.

Or the new mosque built in 2020, which is Donald Trump sized: Çamlıca Mosque

14) No Outdoor Exercising. Almost every big city in the world is going through an outdoor exercise revolution. You are seeing bike lanes pop up in Paris, Chicago, New York, etc. Or cities will install new walkable areas or even places to run. The transformation in Paris has been incredible, where people regularly bicycle everywhere.

But not in Istanbul. Bicycling is still rare and you see people do their daily running on the road next to cars. It looks scary to me.

15) Istanbul is Huge. Constantinople was but a fraction of the sprawling metropolis that Istanbul has grown into today. Through the annals of time, Istanbul has embraced neighboring territories, integrating them into its vast expanse. It’s a city so big it takes a long time to explore. Istanbul has a pretty good public transportation system but it still takes a lot of time between districts.

16. The Mustache. The mustache has completely disappeared in western society. But in Istanbul, you’ll see a good number of over 50 year old men wearing the old school mustache. There’s a certain generation that keeps that going.

    

17. Tea Culture. While America and many European countries obsess over coffee, Turkey celebrates its love for tea. As you walk through Turkish streets, you'll see people everywhere sipping from their tea glasses. The beauty of tea, with its gentle caffeine content, lets you enjoy it all day without the overpowering buzz coffee often brings.

18. Everyone is Politically Literate. Every Turk is informed of politics and has strong opinions of politicians and political parties. It cuts across class and income lines. In America, most people have a vague sense of politics but are mostly concerned about their own personal financial situation. That’s not the case in Turkey. Politics is important. Which makes sense. Turkey is surrounded by a chaotic region.

19.  Dating Apps Are ok But No To Approaching Strangers. While Turks share many similarities with Europeans, they uphold certain traditional values, especially when it comes to dating etiquette. Approaching unfamiliar women in public settings for romantic pursuits isn't customary. More often, women frequent bars and clubs accompanied by male acquaintances, and romantic connections typically emerge through friends or established social networks. Yet, dating apps shine as a modern exception, accepted socially and brimming with beautiful women.

20. Architectural Diversity. You’ll see all types of buildings in Istanbul. It’s quite a pleasure.

The Neighborhood Guide

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