The Lindy Guide to Warsaw

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Have you ever visited Warsaw? I just spent 5 days walking Warsaw recently. I even met some Polish subscribers to this Newsletter.

Poland is a fascinating place, but most tourists skip Warsaw for Krakow. Even the Poles urge you to bypass Warsaw. Krakow is the postcard-perfect image of Europe for Americans—unscathed by World War II. It’s a beautiful city. 

But Warsaw is a different beast with an intense history. In World War II, the Nazis occupied it, and then they flattened the entire city.

Europe has this category of cities that were rebuilt after World War 2 due to getting bombed. Places like Caen in France, Rotterdam in Netherlands, Dresden in Germany. I frequently discover that cities like Warsaw, which were leveled during the war and then reconstructed, have become more fascinating than the "preserved towns," particularly, their centers, are usually fossilized into museums, swamped with tourists, and as a result, they all start to feel identical.

During my visit, I found Warsaw underrated. It's a city alive, undergoing transformation.

In This Newsletter

1) 13 Observations of Warsaw

2) A Comprehensive Neighborhood Guide 

13 Observations of Warsaw

1) No Mass Tourism

The first thing that hits you is the absence of swarms of tourists roaming the city. Tourists mainly stick to the rebuilt Old Warsaw, a Disneyland-esque spectacle.

Tourism has engulfed many European cities, completely transforming their vibe. Central European hubs like Prague or Budapest are tourist magnets, their economies bending to serve them, making the atmosphere feel contrived. Places like Rome have lost their authentic city feel. But Warsaw dodges this bullet.

Maybe it’s because the city hasn’t been flooded with tourists (yet), but the economy doesn’t revolve around tourism. Visitors are not met with the exhausted complacency you might experience from locals at more highly trafficked locations.  It’s a Polish city and you are a visitor. It feels like a Europe from 30-40 years ago before mass tourism.

2) Bad for Walking but Good for Cycling

Warsaw, like many new cities is product of a time when city planning worshiped the automobile. Think of big streets designed to swallow lanes of traffic and wide and long blocks that stretch walks into a marathon.

The good news is, a city designed for cars can also be modified to be bike friendly very easily. Warsaw's got a thing for bikes. All that space that's a drag for walkers is a playground for cyclists. Wide lanes invite you to weave through the city. If you go to Warsaw, you've got to ride a bicycle. On a bike, Warsaw's scale just makes sense.

3) The Economy is Growing Fast

Poland’s growth has been impressive the last few years. You can see it in the city as well. It is not a depressed city or one that feels like it is in decline. It is not rich by any means, but there is a slight optimism in the air.

The specter haunting any people is the fear they might not make more money than their parents. That’s a real concern in many places in Europe. The dream of owning a home and having a good salary may feel like a mirage. But the Poles sidestep this issue. Their parents and grandparents lived through the gray days of Communism. Of course this new generation will be better off than their parents.

But it’s not a cheap place anymore. Poland was the budget backdrop for a certain generation, a kind of Eastern European Thailand where Brits flocked for cheap thrills.

But those days are fading. Italy and Greece now undercut Poland's prices. Rents are on the climb. It will take time to see the effects though.

4) The Architecture is All Mixed

The city has become an architectural patchwork. Along the Royal Route, you'll find a blend of neoclassical palaces, baroque churches, and modernist buildings, each telling a different chapter of the city's history. Marszałkowska Street showcases a mix of pre-war tenements, socialist realism structures, and contemporary glass and steel edifices, reflecting Warsaw's turbulent past and its forward-looking present.

The Praga district offers a stark contrast with its gritty, industrial vibe, where old factories stand alongside trendy cafes and art spaces. Meanwhile, the Powiśle area combines green parks and historic buildings with modern developments, like the Copernicus Science Centre and the University of Warsaw Library, both examples of cutting-edge contemporary architecture.

Post-1950, the Eastern Bloc witnessed a shift from the classicist architecture of Socialist Realism to a style that mirrored Western Modernism, thanks to a process of De-Stalinization. Warsaw has examples of Brutalist architecture, characterized by its use of raw concrete and bold, geometric shapes. This style was popular from the 1950s to the 1970s. This is Kozia Street

Neoclassical. Buildings like the Palace on the Water, Królikarnia, and the Holy Trinity Church showcase the simplicity and geometric forms inspired by Roman architecture​

Modernist. Warsaw has an impressive modern skyline for an Eastern European country.

The Palace of Culture and Science is a very impressive building. Massive. Built by Stalin during the peak of Soviet power. It’s probably the last true remaining monument to the Soviet Union that is still standing and dominates a city.

5) It’s Really a Polish City

When I think of cities I think of places where everyone looks different. That’s probably because I grew up in Chicago, moved to New York for work, spent time in Paris, traveled to other cities. Those are multicultural places. They are international. It doesn’t feel like the city is “owned” by any one group. Every one on the street looks different than the person next to them.

But Warsaw is not very international like western cities. It is still a Polish city.

The vast majority of people you see will be Polish there. Or Ukranian. There are some foreigners and it may grow over the years. But for right now. It’s a city of Poles.

6) Families in Public Spaces

Warsaw's public spaces are filled with families. It’s something you don’t see much in Western cities where kids and families are often tucked away in the suburbs.

This vibrant family presence might give the impression of a baby boom in Poland, but that's not the reality. The official Total Fertility Rate in Poland is quite low, even lower in Warsaw. However, those who do have children tend to embrace the outdoors with their little ones.

The public spaces are “hyper-normalized” but that doesn’t tell the entire story.

7) The Women Are Attractive

It’s hard talking about the women of a city without sounding like a creep. But there are times you glance over in Warsaw and see a woman so attractive it takes your breathe away. That doesn’t always happen in other cities very often.

8) Incredible Vietnamese Food 

Warsaw is home to the second biggest Vietnamese community outside of Vietnam. Their roots trace back to the 1950s and 1960s, when Poland and Vietnam were comrades in the socialist bloc, leading to student and worker exchanges. The community saw a notable expansion in the 1980s and 1990s, as more Vietnamese ventured into Poland as traders and entrepreneurs.

That means you can find really authentic and delicious Vietnamese food. I recommend this restaurant.

9) A Hostile Neighbor and War on the Border

As an American born after 1945, you never had enemies at the borders. You never had a huge conflict that could spill over into your country. But in Poland, the war between Russia and Ukraine is a constant, looming presence. There's always the risk that an incident could trigger a broader conflict involving Poland or even NATO. What if Russia advances on Kiev? The outcome is uncertain.

It’s the elephant in the room while walking around this city. At any time, something crazy can happen.

When I flew back to the US from Warsaw I was taken into a room by CPB and questioned about my stay. They said a lot of Americans are going to Warsaw and trying to sneak into Ukraine to fight. War on the border is unnerving.

10) I Didn’t Like Old Town Warsaw

In World War II, Warsaw's Old Town was almost entirely razed and later painstakingly rebuilt, making it the first historic city core to be reconstructed on such a scale. It earned a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1980. Despite efforts to use original materials and match pre-war aesthetics, some reconstructions leaned towards earlier periods or incorporated modern touches behind authentic facades.

However, I found the Old Town somewhat disillusioning. Its historic allure and scenic architecture were overshadowed by the dense crowds of tourists.

11) People Watching is Enjoyable

The people of Warsaw have a unique charm that makes people-watching in the city an amusing and insightful experience. You can see a mix of everything including what Old Warsaw was, White Collar workers, artist types, newer westernized type fashion, etc.

12) Air Quality Issues

One thing you notice when you’re in Warsaw is that the air feels a little different, heavier than other places. This is due to factors such as heavy traffic, reliance on coal for heating, and unfavorable weather conditions that can trap pollutants close to the ground.

13) The Vistula Waterfront is Full of Life

Warsaw has a river that runs through it and the water front is well designed for hanging out.

Comprehensive Neighborhood Guide

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